TOP 5 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS

TOP 5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT  CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS

By Joy Phido – Chief Executive, Natural Hair & Extensions Educator & Specialist

World of Braiding & Extensions

1.       Hair Relaxers contain poisonous chemical such as Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide,   Lithium Hydroxide, Guanidine Hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate.  These chemicals are alkaline and range from a pH factor of 13 to 14 on the pH level.

Hair Relaxer

Hair Relaxer

Hair Relaxer

Hair Relaxer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2.   When these chemicals are applied incorrectly, left on the hair for too long or left in the hands of untrained hands, they melt your hair leading to burnt scalp, hair damage and complete hair loss.

Burnt and damaged scalp from chemical relaxers

Burnt and damaged scalp from chemical relaxers

Damaged and patchy scalp from chemical relaxers

Damaged and patchy scalp from chemical relaxers

Relaxing her own hair

Relaxing her own hairChemical Relaxer service in a salon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. Chemical relaxers are corrosive and eat into anything they come in contact with. For this reason, manufacturers instruct that the stylist applies gloves on their hands before applying the chemicals as it will cut into your skin when applied with bare hands. For the hair strands, they penetrate into the hair Cortex and eat off the protein (keratin) in the strands giving the hair a permanent change that renders the hair limp and lifeless

4. Although the instruction says you should protect the hands when applying chemical relaxers, there is no instruction on how to protect the scalp.   For the reason that the scalp is exposed, when chemicals are applied, they absorb into your skin tissues through the scalp, to your cells and into your blood stream thereby exposing your health to chemical toxins from sodium hydroxide etc.  The dosage of this exposure is constantly increased depending on the number of times you retouch and apply your relaxer.  It is also a known fact that this is one of the occupational hazards of beauticians and hairdressers as they are constantly inhaling these chemicals when working with them.  These chemical have however been linked to tumors and cancers.

 

5. Considering the fact that we are constantly exposed to a barrage of external and environmental pollutants, the least we can do is help ourselves to reduce the amount of chemicals we knowingly and willingly put in our body. You are therefore personally responsible for putting toxic cosmetic chemicals into your body through chemical relaxers. With the world now developing a greener conscience – cutting down on carbon emissions, considerations for climate change, concerns about genetically modified food etc, shouldn’t you therefore need make a conscious effort to protect yourself from exposure to these chemicals by either completely cutting away from them or by decreasing your usage of them?

 

Burnt scalp from relaxer

Burnt scalp from relaxer

Damaged, exposed and wounded scalp

Damaged, exposed and wounded scalp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are natural hair and protective alternatives to chemical processing of the hair which create beauty.

Would you like to know some of them? Follow and like us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/worldofbraiding or contact us to find out more.  If you already wear natural hairstyles, we would like to hear from you on how you are getting on and if you need help on how to care for them.

 

For enquiries, please feel free to call or email us:

Tel:                         +44 1702 339 858            , mob:                         +44 7946 439 057            

info@worldobraiding.com

www.worldofbraiding.comwww.worldofbraidingacademy.com,http://www.hairextensionsandbeauty.com

Follow us on social media:

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Skype – joyphido

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HOW EXTENSIONS CAN DAMAGE YOUR HAIR

HOW EXTENSIONS CAN DAMAGE YOUR HAIR

So we have relocated World of Braiding & Extensions to the heart of Essex (Southend On Sea)  – if you live in England you will be familiar with TOWIE –(The Only Way Is Essex) – a programme on Television where Essex girls show

TOWIE GIRL

TOWIE GIRL

their love for everything extensions – hair, nails, tanning, night life etc.

The only way is essex

The only way is essex

This is where our story today starts.  A client walks in the shop and is desperate for help. I was late getting to the shop as my day was going to be a video production day and not for clients.  But this is one of the perks of being on the high street where clients walk in without appointments. So I get a phone call to desperately come in as someone needed help.

I walk in to the shop and saw her sitting looking glum and very sad.  I wondered what was wrong but as is customary of our service, I ask her if she was okay and she replied back that she was not okay.

I settled down and came to her to hear what the problem was.

Her story.  She had got her hair into glue gun extensions the previous day but had not slept throughout the night.  This is because the stylist who claimed she was an expert at extensions had put the extensions in completely wrong.  The extensions glue had been applied directly on her scalp and it was so tight that she had headaches all night with her scalp gone sore and constantly throbbing.  Details of the story.  She had got to this shop at 9.00am and after hours of wait, arguments and eventual agreement,  finally got attended to in a process that did not feel right. She was expected to pay for all the materials needed for the hair extensions process exclusive of the fee she was going to pay for the service. She had to wait in the shop while the materials were bought.  In the end the process was completed at about 11.00pm.   Her head was sore.

Bad glue gun hair extensions

Bad glue gun hair extensions

She woke up the next day in agony and immediately ran back to the salon with the intention to take it out but it was closed and she had no idea when it was going to be opened.  She was now desperate and started going from salon to salon asking who could take out the extensions.  No salon could help her as all they tried did not take out the extensions but her hair.  Her head had gone red and sore as the glue stuck to her scalp firmly.  To cut a long story short, we were able to take out the bad hair day extensions using only the best glue removers in the industry without causing her any pain or hair loss.

This is a familiar story we have seen with our 3 months experience in Essex.  Young Caucasian girls getting different types of extensions done by untrained inexperienced stylist.  Among lots of the cases we have had to attend to, another case which was quite pathetic was a situation where a stylist had applied bonding glue on a client’s head all the way to the hairline which was very visible to an onlooker.  When it goes wrong they desperately come seeking help.  When you offer professional service, they claim it is expensive and they run off to cheaper salons.  The result is damaged hair and these girls will go bald before they are 30 years old.  We are happy to help but we will be happier to attend to these clients without having to mop after other people’s mess.

Badly done glue gun extensions

Badly done glue gun extensions

Some other known cases include – Kim Kardashian, Victoria Beckham, Britney Spears, Coleen Rooney, Naomi Campbell etc.  Hair extensions when not done professionally or with care can seriously lead to traction alopecia and alopecia areata.

What is Hair Extensions:   Hair extensions are the addition of virgin, artificial fibers or anything that is not your own hair into your hair.  This way of achieving long hair has become very popular recently among all races. In the past extensions was only popular with Black girls but now this is no longer the case.

Lots of people still struggle to understand hair extensions.

What are the different ways of adding Hair Extensions:  There are different ways of adding hair extensions.  They range from:

Braiding with extensions – single plaits with extensions, cornrows with extensions, twist with extensions etc.

Weaves extensions – full head sew-in extensions, track sew-in extensions, interlock sew-in weave etc.

Weft Bonding extensions – cap weave with weft bonding, line bonding on tracks etc

Fusions strand-by-strand extensions – glue gun fusions extensions, micro beads /ring/micro loop fusion extensions, pre-bonded heat gun fusion extensions, cold fusions etc

Other types are known as Units –  regular wigs, Clip-ins, Velcro,lace front wigs, frontals etc

What makes a difference between types of hair extensions will depend on how healthy they are applied, how natural and realistic they look when compared to the natural hair, how comfortable the hair extensions feels on the client’s natural hair, how durable they last in-between salon visits, how much they cost to get the service done, the products used to achieve the result, how informed; experienced and educated your stylist is etc.

Why do we need hair extensions: 

Length – We need hair extensions for instant length of hair (our hair grows up to 13cm per year – which depends on a healthy lifestyle, the healthy food we eat, the quality products we use, genetics, age, health etc.).

Volume -We need extensions to give our hair volume

Change of Colour/Highlights, easy styling of our hair, for beauty, durability, for versatile look especially for people with celebrity lifestyle etc.

What causes hair extensions damage: 

Don’ts of Hair Extensions:

  • Don’t apply the wrong type of extensions on your hair without detailed consultation with your stylist.

  • Don’t become addicted to wearing extensions and not take a break occasionally to rest your hair – this is because the hair gets stressed from constant abuse – pulling and tugging.

  • You will have damage if you do not treat your natural hair with care – using good quality products – shampoos and conditioners, applying the right treatments – deep condition & treatment, split end trims and cuts etc.

  • You will have damage if you do not use professional service to take out your hair extensions etc.

Do’s of hair extensions:

  • Work with professional stylist who are well trained and have the love of your hair at heart.

  • Have a detailed consultation with your stylist and understand what type of extensions will suit your natural hair without causing you damage.

  • Learn to take advice – I deal with clients who simply do not listen to advice as they mentally take on an idea of what they should look like.

  • Treat your hair extensions with care as if it was your own hair as well as treat your own hair with care.

  • Do not wear your hair extensions for too long as it affects the health of your hair.

  • Use professional service to take out your hair extensions.

  • Give your hair a rest from extensions occasionally and give it good treatment when not in extensions.

  • If your hair is damaged, do not use hair extensions.  Wait for your hair to get back to good health before applying hair extensions.

World of Braiding offers healthy hair extensions techniques as our client’s hair health is our passion and concern.  We consult with all clients before taking on a service of hair extensions.  We care for your hair and ensure there are no damages. We also train you with the best ways to apply all the different hair extensions techniques.

 If any of the issues mentioned in this article has affected you, or you have an experience you will like to share with us, please feel free to do so.  Also email us if you need our advice on any issues in this article.

Tel: +44 1702 339 858, mob: +44 7946 439 057

info@worldobraiding.com

www.worldofbraiding.com, http://www.worldofbraidingacademy.com

 

Joy a mother with her four children

Joy a mother with her four children

About your Trainer

Joy Phido is an internationally established Natural Hair and Extensions Educator, Specialist, & Designer.  Joy is a mother with 4 children and has first-hand experience on how difficult it is to work and run a family especially in the Western world.  After working in corporate Nigeria as a banker and corporate England in telecoms, Joy tried her hands on buy and sell businesses which failed. She eventually realized that to succeed in business; you need to have a skill in your hands first. In addition to her natural passion and skill in hair designing, Joy took series of professional training from across different continents and now has the mission to give students real skill of running a hair Business. This is why World of Braiding has become a success and it is this passion of owning your own skill that motivates Joy in helping people who come to World of Braiding & Extensions for training.

Joy has a BSc in Business Admin, a qualified NVQ Level 3 Hairdresser, a State Registered Hairdresser (SRH) with UK Hairdressing Council, has over 20 years Natural Hair & Extensions experience.  She is also a qualified teacher, an NLP practitioner with varied career experiences.

Before setting up World of Braiding & Extensions, Joy started teaching Braiding, Weaving & Extensions with the Newham Council Adult Education Department (Newceys) for 5 years at 4 Centres with some classes as big as 30 students. As the Chief Executive, Trainer and Artistic Director at World of Braiding & Extensions, her passion is to make Natural Hair and Extensions a professional skill as well as help stylist understand how to make money while designing glamorous clients.

Joy’s passion for natural hair is also associated with the fact that she experienced hair damage with chemical relaxers which made her start wearing natural hairstyles thereafter.  She can be seen as a Doctor  for healthy natural hair where all her children wear natural hairstyles and she is no stranger on the internet writing from her blogs, teaching on Youtube with step-by-step videos to constantly enrich students’ knowledge with over 1.5million views and over 6,000 subscribers.  She is also a Natural Hair & Extensions Business Mentor and adviser helping students & practitioners not only on how to get into the industry but how to become successful and prosper in the industry.  She brings a wealth of knowledge and personal experience to this training to enhance your learning.  World of Braiding & Extensions is constantly exhibiting at Hair events, taking part in major projects and designing hair for fashion shows and events. 

14 COMMON MISTAKES OF AFRO HAIR

Joy Phido’s

Observation on the Natural Hair revolution and re-awakening

14 COMMON MISTAKES TO UNTANGLE THE COILS OF AFRO HAIR BEAUTY  

AFRO HAIR IS DIFFERENT BUT NOT INFERIOR

I get contacts everyday by black people who are struggling to grow, maintain, understand and glamorise their natural Afro hair.

These people vary in their needs. I have being counselling, advising, supporting and generally helping these people across the world. What I find is that people may live in different locations in the world but their Afro hair problems are consistently familiar and similar to each other.  

Take for instance the enquiry I got from this client.  

Damaged Afro Hairline

Damaged Afro Hairline

She has been struggling in silence with a damaged hairline problem for over 10 years as there was nowhere she could seek help. Typically when I get these enquiries I ask for details of the problem including images. The image I received from this particular client was very shocking to say the least. The story was that she had chemically relaxed her hair and had started wearing weaves constantly. Her hairline had completely disappeared due to the combination of relaxer and tension from tight cornrows causing her traction alopecia.  This problem has now made her lose her self-esteem and confidence in herself. She now desperately needed help.

The client I worked with yesterday had similar problems. Her chemical damage was so severe she developed in addition to traction alopecia; another hair loss problem – alopecia areata and had now resorted to wearing wigs which was also not helping her situation.  Another client had a complete hair loss problem – alopecia totalis where improper chemicals application had completely dissolved all her hair strands leaving her bald. She had gone to the famous Harley Street Clinic for hair loss & replacement treatment and was asked to pay £12,000 for hair replacement.  Very expensive strands of hair – wouldn’t you say? Harley Street, London is known for its rich hair replacement clientele – Wayne Rooney’s hair transplant is an example?  The cases of hair problems I deal with every day abound and these problems will continue to repeat themselves for as long as there exist ignorance and misunderstanding of Afro hair in our community.  From my continuous exposure and experience of working with these clients, I have concluded that the causes of these problems come from one major source – HOW TO UNTANGLE THE COILS OF AFRO HAIR.  

Healthy Afro Hair

Healthy Afro Hair

My interest in hair has been born out of a passion to see healthy growing glamorous natural hair.  My personal experience is that I had my long glowing glossy healthy hair to chemical relaxers and now chosen to grow my hair natural.  I have also seen close friends and family members lose hair to chemicals.  I do have a personal understanding of the journeys the natural hair presents and have therefore undertaken to help everyone who is experiencing problems with their hair. With this in mind, I don’t only design glamorous natural hair but I help to protect, maintain and encourage my clients to grow their natural hair. Before we look at the problems, mistakes and solutions of Afro hair, let us understand the uniqueness of this hair type.

Characteristics /Understanding of the Natural Afro Hair

Afro hair is different but by no means inferior to other hair types.  However, because Afro hair is generally misrepresented, misunderstood and wrapped in mystery clients who wear this hair do not appreciate it. Your natural Afro hair is beautiful, can be managed and should be loved like any other hair type.  There is no mistake about Afro hair.  It grows from a small pocket on the skin /scalp called follicles like other hair types and its texture is also determined by our genes which we inherited from our parents.

The Hair Follicles

The Hair Follicles

Our first most important duty therefore is to know and understand our natural hair as it grows out of our head.

  • Our tightly coiled hair comes from a flat oval shaped follicle which grows this way out of our scalp.
  • It is designed with a tight pattern of spirals and coils in shape. These patterns are coily not curly. 
  • The degree and type of coils varies – slight coils, moderate coils, extremely coily.  According to Andre Walker’s hair type analysis (Oprah Winfrey’s celebrity hair stylist), this coils  fall into the Type 4 – A,B and C definition of patterns.
  • We generally mistake our degree of coils to mean coarse and this mistake is what leads us to use harsh heat and chemicals to solve what we see as a problem.
  • In our degree of coils, and like other hair types, we also have fine, medium and coarse texture.  It is important that you find out what your true texture is so you can be empowered and be in control to educate others about your hair.
  • Afro hair is generally dry because the natural oil which moisturises all strands of hair from the scalp does not travel the strands of Afro hair due to the spiral and tightness of the coils.
  • This dryness is what makes the Afro hair brittle and prone to easy breakage. The continuous breakage therefore stops it from retaining length and growing long.  Moisture and suppleness is therefore one of the main ingredients lacking in natural Afro hair.
  • The spiral tightness of our coils causes it to tangle very easily which also leads to breakage.
  • Natural Afro hair is called various names – kinky, coily, nappy, woolly etc.

First thing to do therefore is to accept your hair as it grows from your scalp.

The natural Afro hair is one of those cases where appearance is deceptive.  The tightness of our coils makes it look thick, strong, woolly, heavy, full etc which gives an illusion that it can withstand stress but in reality it is extremely fragile due to the spiral gaps and this is what leads to its breakage at the least stretch. This highlighted uniqueness has offered a special requirement of the Afro hair which must be addressed in order to have healthy hair like other hair types.  The problem therefore is not our hair but the WAY WE HANDLE OUR HAIR.  The solution is therefore to find ways to handle our hair to enhance its beauty without damage or stress.

Our hair requires gentle tender loving care.

Afro coily textured hair types therefore require special care, products and styling needs.  We have to be smart and avoid the mainstream glamorous marketing and gimmicks which tend to trick us into buying products and hair styles that claim to work for all hair types.

My conclusion is that since there are no schools teaching about natural Afro hair type which has led to lack of understanding of our hair type, there are series of mistakes that have been practised over the years which has led to and will continue to exist causing our hair type untold damage.  As seen in the documentary – “400 years without a comb”, the systematic damage, abuse and hatred of the Afro hair came from years of mental, physical and political stereotyping and conditioning for the black person to learn to reject their own hair.  Racial pride and self-esteem were thrown away at this stage in our history and will probably equally take a long time for us to learn to love our hair again.

While we battle with ourselves to love our hair as it grows from our head, these are 14 of the most consistent /recurring common natural hair mistakes that I have noted. To be able to grow, maintain and enjoy our hair type, we need to avoid these mistakes.  Free your strands; love your hair.

 

Mistake No. 1. – Using Chemical Relaxers on Afro Hair

Generally black people think God made a mistake when he created the Afro hair. We think the solution to our spiralled tightly coiled hair is to use chemicals on our hair.  The reason we do this is because we think it will help us comb through our hair easily.  Our expectations is based on the continuous exposure and visual images of straight hair models we see which has made us have unrealistic demands of our hair. We generally think our hair should comb the same way as these other hair textures. We call this easy and manageable hair.  Relaxing our hair is not a solution. It is a temporary solution as the hair that continues to grow out remains tightly coiled Afro hair.  This exposes more problems as what the chemicals do is break our hair structure – releases /relaxes the tight bonds in our hair.  When this happens, we lose the keratin protein in our hair and our hair loses its elasticity and no longer responds to the basic stress we would normally subject our hair to.  Most of us have experienced the effect of these dangerous and harsh chemicals in our hair which also seeps into our body.  Relaxers contain(sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide), curly perms (ammonium thioglycolate), Keratin /Brazilian treatment (formaldehyde – a highly toxic carcinogen). You may get the straight hair you desire but these processes do not grow, protect, maintain or give you healthy hair.  From the examples above, some people repeat their hair damage process. They damage their hair, they get advice, cut the hair and promise they will stop using chemicals; they grow out long natural hair and then go back to the same process again.  My recommendation therefore is understand your natural coily hair and its needs rather than forcing it to change its structure. Work with it; find out how to make it work for you – look for products that work to enhance your hair, seek expert advice and save yourself the stress of quick fix solution that ends up becoming expensive damages, causing you to lose your self-esteem and self-confidence etc. We have written a lot on the effects of chemical relaxers in our hair blog. http://www.worldofbraiding.wordpress.com

Mistake No. 2. – Rough handling and Harsh Hair Habits – forceful combing.

Afro hair may look strong & tough but this is not reality. The first problem you hear the Afro hair client complain about is that their hair is dry, tight and difficult to comb. This is the reason most Mothers continue to damage their children’s hair.

  • Use the correct wide tooth comb to comb your hair.
  • Never comb dry hair as it tangles and breaks.
  • Moisturise the hair before you comb
  • Be patient and comb hair from the ends/tips to the roots and slowly too. When you come across tangles, take your time to detangle it.
  • Never use the same tools you use on other hair types on your Afro hair.
  • Do not force your hair to become straight.  This damages your tight coils.
  • It will simply fluff, stretch out and bounce back. Remember when we wore Gerry-curls or curly perms – you did not comb your hair straight, you simply guided your curls into place and shape. The same should apply with Afro hair and we should not expect differently.  It is called curly /coily hair and not straight hair.

Mistake No. 3 – Wrong Accessories – holding in tight ponytails, tight iron clips, rough hair bands etc are sure ways to break and damage your hair as they clip on the edges and snap the strands of hair. The less manipulation you do with your hair, the less it will break. Learn to treat your hair like a precious delicate material and go easy on the tight rough accessories.  

Mistake No. 4. Lack of moisture – Water is a tight coil’s best friend.  Our hair is naturally dry and tight.  The best way you can show your hair love is to spray water / moisture into your hair daily. Afro hair comes alive when it is wet as moisture releases and relaxes the strands and tangles that happen when it is dry. When our hair is moisturised, it is easy to untangle and section.  We need moisture or hydration on our hair just like we also need it in our body.  Again stop using the hair examples of other races where they do not need moisture and are constantly blow drying their hair.  Afro hair is different.  We need moisture. Simply put – Afro hair is the opposite of straight hair.  Everything our hair needs is what their hair does not need. While other hairs are weak when wet and strong when dry, our hair is strong when wet and weak when dry. While other hair types wash their hair everyday due to too much grease, we do not wash our hair everyday as we need moisture due to dryness. Stay with the moisture to have strong healthy hair.  Remember Jerry curls again. We kept it moist and wet and our hair grew long.  Same applies here. Tip is have a spring water in a natural oil mix and put in a spray bottle. Spray this on your hair daily so it is not left dry again.  Remember, all your hair products should contain water.

Mistake No. 5. – Not cleaning / shampooing your hair.

Our first set maintenance process is to wash, condition and moisturise. We need to clean our scalp of natural oil build-up, dust and dirt from the atmosphere, sweat from our scalp, product build-up etc. Natural Afro hair clients tend to listen to the old wives’ tales that you should not wash your hair too much as it is difficult to moisturise afterwards.  Yes it is naturally dry but with daily moisturisers, we would be fine after a wash.  Washing your hair less frequently however, has its consequences as it leads to scalp diseases – dandruff, eczema, fungal infections, lice etc. The dandruff and dirt blocks your pores and hair strands which suffocates them from coming out of the follicles. According to Madam C J Walker (1867 – 1919). “See your scalp as a garden and your hair strands as the plants. If you do not clear the weeds (dandruff and other diseases), they stop your plants from growing.” The same applies to hair follicles as they get suffocated when the scalp is infested and infected with scalp conditions.  The only solution is to maintain clean hair habits.

Mistake No. 6 – Using wrong products

I have spoken to clients who say the only product they know is petroleum products.  Sometimes I wonder what planet they live in. Products make a big difference to our hair.  Product is one of the areas where black hair has been conned and misled over the years.  Other races manufactured products which were good for their own hair type and marketed same products to Afro hair clients.  Our bathroom and bedroom is ridden with them.  This is why the black race is known to spend 6 times more on hair beauty than any other race. The problem is we are gullible and buy based on the beautiful image of a model on a product.  This product will not help us in any form and so we get tired and go to buy another.  As we carry on, we discover our bathroom is full of products we have no use or value for. Our demand for good hair, vulnerability and insecurity has always been picked up over the years and so the power of marketing comes to play a major part in our pockets. Going forward, read the label and note the ingredients.  Afro hair only needs mostly natural products. If you do not understand the name of the ingredient then it is not meant for you.  Your hair is part of you and feeds on the things you feed on too.  There is a saying “if you cannot put it in your mouth; then do not put it in your hair”.  Watch out for the following products:

  • Alcohol – it dries out our already dry hair
  • Sodium lauryl sulphate – it is simply detergent which is giving us lots of foam and make our hair squeaky clean by also taking away our natural oils.
  • Petroleum – clogs our pores and attracts more dust from the atmosphere. 
  • The tip is look into your kitchen for natural oils. 
  • When you apply products to your hair, make sure your hair is wet as this is the time it absorbs the products. 
  • Remember your products should contain less oil and more water in the form of lotions.

Remember our ancestors grew their hair with natural products and so can we. There are lots of natural product companies which have perfected what is good for our hair.  Look out for them and use them. Stay away from the fancy names and products that claim to be good for all hair types.  They have to be specific for your natural hair type.  Clear your bathroom.  You do not need the junk in there. They are not good for your hair. 

Mistake No. 7. Improper shampoo techniques – Working with Tangles.  Detangle your hair before you shampoo it.  If your hair is tangled and you start washing, it will get tighter and more difficult to comb.  Natural Afro hair requires specific shampoo techniques.  Tip is to group the hair into sections, wash them in the sections and follow the natural flow of the strands. Do not roughen the scalp and over manipulate the hair strands. Use the balls of your finger tips and do not dig into your scalp as it affects your follicles.  Over manipulation of the strands lead to tangled strands and it leads to breakage. Do not over wash as hair gets too clean and loses natural oils.

Mistake No. 8 – Your hair is your health – Not eating the right foods. Your hair is part of your body.  The mistake lots of people make is they think hair grows from outside of the body hence they spend so much money on buying products and hair extensions. They do not remember that hair grows from the cells in our follicles and it is this cells that push up to become the hair we see. Eating the right foods will help your hair to be healthy, strong and grow. Tips are eat less processed foods and stay more with organic, unrefined foods – protein as hair is protein, fruits and vegetable as they contain vitamins and nutrients.

Mistake No. 9 – Ignoring Deep Conditioning

Afro hair needs deep conditioning and hot oil treatment from time to time.  These treatments help to restructure, condition, soften and make our hair supple.  Use shampoos and conditioners made for dry and sometimes damaged hair as they help to restore moisture in our hair.  Use them to keep your hair soft and in good condition.

Mistake No.10 – Use of wrong styling Hot Tools –

Afro hair does not need heat to look beautiful. We have coily hair. Hot tools give straight strands and this again is from us imitating other hair types. Why do we need to straighten coily hair?  Stay away from blow dryers, straighteners, curling tongs, hot stove etc.  They apply too much heat on our hair and with continous use, our naturally dry hair gets drier and damaged leading to breakage.

Mistake No. 11 – Not Trimming our hair. Hair grows and gets damaged with continuous exposure to the weather – known as weathering.  This leads to dry tips which is caused by exposure of the cuticles to tearing causing the cortex to be exposed.  This exposure of the cortex is what is known as split ends.  If the cuticle has torn and exposed the cortex, this has to be trimmed off otherwise the tear travels down the strand of hair causing more damage and breakage to our hair. All hair goes through this process and Afro hair should not ignore this.  Tip is to trim your hair at least once in 3 months.  Be your own best judge. Watch and see how thin the hair gets and then trim off the dry scraggy part.

Mistake No.12 – Wrong hair Styling methods – Wrong hair styles is one of the worst mistakes natural hair make.  I have seen clients manipulate their hair with wrong hair styles which prove to be their biggest problems.  Tightly holding the hair edges in cornrows, plaits and weaves leads to hair damage. This gets worse when clients had previously applied relaxers in their hair and then go on to wear braids, Ghana cornrows and weaves. These styles cause so much damage when the hair is left with untrained stylist who do not understand our hair strands and its fragility.  Tip, is always work with trained stylist who understand the best hairstyles for your hair and want to encourage your hair’s growth. Also insist that your hairline is not held too tightly when wearing braids, weaves and extensions. Other protective hairstyles you can wear without damage include – two strand twist, bantu knots, natural braids, cornrows, flat twist, cornrow twist, coils, locs, afro puff.

Mistake No.13. Not protecting your natural hair.  Once you have achieve good length in your hair, you may want to wear it loose to show off to your friends.  Unfortunately, the Afro hair is not the best friend of too much wind especially during winter when there is no humidity in the atmosphere. For you to retain your length, you need to protect your hair especially the ends – where you notice dryness quicker because it rubs against your clothes, pillows etc. Keep them out of site and they will retain moisture better.  At night you also need to wear satin scarf, satin bonnet, or pillow case in order to retain the moisture in your hair.

 

Mistake No.14 – Wrong hair extensions.I am a big fan of hair extensions.  I believe if you wear natural Afro hair, you

Single plaits human hair extensions on natural hair

Single plaits human hair extensions on natural hair

may not have the instant length to manipulate into different styles overnight. It takes patience and time to achieve length. This is where the hair extensions come to help us.  I call it “fake it till you have it”. Not everyone will have long natural hair.  There are many factors to consider – genes, age, stress in our society, expensive healthy foods, ill health, medication etc. In the meantime, why look miserable, lack confidence and self believe if there is an option for you.  I get enquiries from people who work is professional offices wanting to fit in and not feel out of place because they are trying to grow back their natural hair which is taking time to settle down and give them the look they want. My solution is wearing glamorous healthy hair extensions. But remember, a good hair extensions must sit on a healthy base of natural hair. Do not use extensions to hide your hair damage. They also help to protect our natural hair when done with a competent well trained specialist like we do at World of Braiding & Extensions.

Our rule however, is that you wear only the best quality hair extensions. Get a detailed consultation that explains the best hairstyles for you and offers you not only glamour but healthy natural growing hair at the same time. We call it grow healthy natural hair glamour. We help you achieve glamour with natural healthy hair.  Tip is do not leave your braids for more than 3 months with occasional touch up of 4 – 6 weeks and weave extensions for more than 6 weeks with regular shampoo and maintenance.  When hair extensions last longer than these periods, it starts to loc up, break and cause damage. Stay away from tight hairstyles that are painful and cause you hairline damage.

Here’s to happy hair days.

 

If you have been affected by any of the issues mentioned in this article, book your free consultation today as we are available to answer your questions. Joy will directly consult with you. Our consultation is about Education, Information and Understanding.  It is very important you understand your natural hair and all the options open for you to work with. We make recommendations and suggestions on what is realistic, works for you and in your best interest.

ABOUT JOY PHIDO 

Joy Phido (SRH)

Natural Hair & Extensions Specialist, Consultant, Designer, Educator

Entrepreneur, Speaker, Business Coach/ Adviser, Mentor, Author

BSc Hons – Business Management, NVQ Level 3 Hairdressing,

City & Guilds Level 3 – Teaching, ILEX Level 2 – Legal Secretary

Diploma – Hair Weaving, Certificates in Natural Hair & Extensions,

Before going into hair business, Joy has had years of  various career experiences with varied organizations including Corporate Nigeria, Lagos city banking career, to Corporate England, London city telecomms career.  Joy’s mission is to design, grow and glamorise natural hair as well as help ordinary women gain financial freedom with employment or set up micro businesses.

Joy is available to speak at your next event.  Please call to book.

World of Braiding is World’s No 1 PROFESSIONALLY ACCREDITED NATURAL HAIR & EXTENSIONS ACADEMY.

Contact us:

Telephone:             01702 339 858     , Mobile:             07946 439 057

Email: info@worldofbraiding.com

www.worldofbraiding.comwww.worldofbraidingacademy.com

GROWING BACK HAIR LOSS

GROWING BACK DAMAGED HAIR AND HAIR LOSS

My client came round yesterday for her hair appointment. We started to work on her hair as we have always done. Only there was something different this time. A bit about my client – we have been working on her hair for a period and she has a genetic case of hair loss. I have always been concerned about helping to grow her hair back.

Genetic hair loss

Genetic hair loss

Working with hair loss and hair damage clients is something we deal with on a daily basis. This instance is only one of the many cases we deal with on a daily basis but we feel really upset when we deal with hair loss / hair damage problems caused by untrained stylist and wrong styling advice.
We have therefore taken on the responsibility of researching and looking for products that will help regrow our client’s hair with good results. This is why we noticed something different about my client’s hair. I had given my client some natural hair oils in our last appointment and she has been consistent with using it. The oil had made a big difference and I could notice some new growth in her hair. Her scalp which had looked shiny with signs that her hair follicles were closed now looked normal and I could notice the signs of healthy follicles. Are you in hair business to help your clients maintain and grow healthy hair or you are there just to make money.
Regarding the style we were working on; remember your client’s self-esteem and confidence depends on the final outcome your service gives them. I ensure a good consultation is carried out first and then explain how I will work around and with the hair I see. I always work around the hair condition I see and provide my client with the best hairstyle that does not show hair loss or hair damage where applicable.

Cornrow hairstyle for hair loss

Cornrow hairstyle for hair loss

Would you say you help your clients grow back their hair? Do you help them search for solutions to their hair problems? On the other hand, are you part of the problem where you actually encourage your clients to develop hair damage and hair loss? Do you think it will be good for you to help and support your clients to develop healthy hair habits? These are the issues we deal with in our training. A client needs your help to grow their hair and not your help to damage their hair. Take on trainings if you know you are not qualified and help them achieve healthy hair styles.
As a client, find out if your stylist is qualified to work with hair and can help you create not only amazing hair looks but also look after the health of your hair, before you trust them to work on your hair. The problem here is that most stylists have no knowledge of how to work with hair. Worst of all, is the fact that they are untrained, uneducated, unprofessional and are therefore ignorant of what hair needs and how to care for it. My question to clients is – would you go to an untrained doctor for your health needs or to an untrained dentist, optician etc? The same applies to hair. There are so many people practicing hair service who are not trained. These people need training so they can offer good service. You can help them by not taking up their service and encouraging them to take up training.
We are however aware that some clients love cheap unprofessional service and this is why there is so much hair damage especially in the black community. This is a discussion we will have on another occasion. Please do not be one of those clients. Hair service is very important for a person’s self-esteem which helps you achieve great results in life. Do not throw away your self-confidence for cheap service. As a stylist, do not become the person who helped to damage your client’s self-esteem.

WHAT IS HAIR – As a hairstylist some of the issues you will deal with is to understand what a hair strand is, where hair growth takes place, what is in hair strands, how hair grows, the cycles of hair growth, what you need to eat to encourage growth, what your products should contain to help maintain healthy hair, the hairstyles that are good or unhealthy for your hair etc. A hairstylist should understand these points such that when a client complains that her hair is not growing or is getting damaged, you are in a position to suggest or give tips on basic rules to keep the hair healthy. A trained stylist should be in a position to notice when a head of hair is not looking healthy and immediately suggest solutions to address or redress the problem before it gets out of control. A trained stylist can recognise that a physically damaged hair is rough; brittle to the touch, and prone to split ends and can work on helping that client to address the problem etc.
HEALTH AND SAFETY IN HAIR STYLING – As a hairstylist you are the expert on issues relating to hair. You should know the styles that are healthy for your client’s particular hair type. You should know products to avoid on varied textures of hair; you should know how to apply the products, the timing to use and when to take them out of the hair. You should be in a position to know how to test for hair strengths, strand test, incompatibility test, elasticity test, porosity test etc. It is not enough to pack a handful of chemicals and slap on a client’s hair without considering if the hair strand is strong enough to handle the strength of the chemicals in the relaxer or if the porosity of the hair is such that chemicals will not be the best option on the hair.

Female Pattern Hair loss

Female Pattern Hair loss

These are only a few of the issues we have raised in this article. If you have experienced any problems from untrained stylist, we will like to hear about them. As a stylist, if you have had experiences with clients who are not willing to appreciate your skill, we would like to hear from you.

The Premium Natural Hair & Extensions Professionals
Protect your hair; Don’t go bald before you grow old.
Contact No. +44 20 8983 9815
info@worldofbraiding.com

Joy Phido (SRH)

Qualified Cosmetologist, BSc Hons – Business Management,
Natural Hair & Extensions Specialist, Designer, Consultant, HABIA Certified Educator,
Entrepreneur, Speaker, Business Start-up Coach/ Adviser, Mentor, Member UK Hairdressing Council, Qualified Teacher, NLP Certified Practitioner, ILEX Certified Legal Administrator

ADDICTION TO HAIR EXTENSIONS CAN CAUSE HAIR DAMAGE

ADDICTION TO HAIR EXTENSION CAN CAUSE YOU HAIR DAMAGE

I was chatting with a client the other day and she brought this to my attention; Kim Kardashian is losing hair.

kim kardashian hair loss

kim kardashian hair loss

I was surprised. She is a celebrity; she is rich; she can employ the best hair stylist that can advise her – why has this happened. I actually do like Kim’s hair extensions. It really does look natural and glamorous. I had to research this to be sure my client was right. According to Belgravia Centre Blog “Kim Kardashian has been photographed in Paris with what looks excessive hair loss on the right hand side of her head. Ms. Kardashian, arrived in Paris on Tuesday 6th March for Fashion Week. She was photographed whilst waiting for her luggage at Charles de Gaulle airport. Her usually voluminous hair had a visible bald patch to the right: this could simply be a case of post-flight tousled hair caught at an unfortunate camera angle, or could more likely be an indicator of a hair loss condition.” As has been suggested in various quarters, it could be a hair loss situation caused by excessive stress due to the hectic lifestyle celebrities have. However on the other hand, addiction to hair extensions could have caused this as has been seen with other celebrities in the past – Britney Spears, Coleen Rooney, Naomi Campbell

Naomi Campbell hair loss

Naomi Campbell hair loss

etc. Hair extensions when not done with care can seriously lead to traction alopecia, patchy hair damage on the scalp etc.

What is Hair Extensions: Hair extensions are the addition of artificial fibers or anything that is not your own hair into your hair. Lots of people find it difficult to understand hair extensions as they tend to understand the way it is added onto the hair as the meaning.

What are the different ways of adding Hair Extensions: There are different ways of adding hair extensions. They range from:
Braiding with extensions – single plaits with extensions, cornrows with extensions, twist with extensions etc.
Weaves with extensions – full head sew-in extensions, track sew-in extensions, interlock sew-in weave etc.
Weft Bonding extensions – cap weave with weft bonding, line bonding on tracks etc

fusion strand-by-strand extensions

fusion strand-by-strand extensions

Fusions strand-by-strand extensions – glue gun fusions extensions, micro beads /ring fusion extensions, pre-bonded heat gun fusion extensions, cold fusions etc
Others Units /Wigs – Clip-ins, Velcro etc, lace front wigs, regular wigs etc

What makes a difference between types of hair extensions will depend on how healthy they are applied, how comfortable the hair extensions type is to your natural hair, how durable they last in-between salon visits, how much they cost to get your service, how realistic they look when compared to your natural hair, the products used to achieve the result, how informed; experienced and educated your stylist is etc.

Why do we need hair extensions: We need hair extensions for instant length of hair (our hair grows up to 13cm per year – which depends on a healthy lifestyle, the healthy food we eat, the quality products we use, genetics, age, health etc.), we need extensions to give our hair volume, change of colour, we need extensions for easy styling of our hair, for beauty, durability, for versatile look especially for people with celebrity lifestyle etc.

What causes hair extensions damage: Your hair extensions will cause damage if you apply the wrong type of extensions on your hair without detailed consultation with your stylist. It will cause damage if you become addicted to wearing extensions and do not take a break occasionally to rest your hair – as your hair gets stressed from constant abuse – pulling and tugging. You will have damage if you do not treat your natural hair with care – using good quality products – shampoos and conditioners, applying the right treatments – deep condition & treatment, split end trims and cuts etc. You will have damage if you do not use professional service to take out your hair extensions etc.
To have the best results from your hair extensions:
• Work with professional stylist who are well trained and have the love of your hair at heart.
• Have a detailed consultation with your stylist and understand what type of extensions will suit your natural hair without causing you damage.
• Treat your hair extensions with hair as if it was your own hair as well as treat your own hair with care.
• Do not wear your hair extensions for too long as it affects the health of your hair.
• Use professional service to take out your hair extensions.
• Give your hair a rest from extensions occasionally and give it good treatment when not in extensions.
• If your hair is damaged, do not use hair extensions. Wait for your hair to get back to good health before applying hair extensions.

World of Braiding offers all hair extensions techniques.  We care for your hair and ensure there are no damages. We also train you in the best ways to apply all the different hair extensions techniques.

If any of the issues mentioned in this article has affected you, or you have an experience you will like to share with us, please feel free to do so. Also email us if you need our advice on any issues in this article.

We are the Premium Natural Hair & Extensions Professionals
Protect your hair; Don’t go bald before you grow old.
Contact No. +44 1702 339 858 
info@worldofbraiding.com

Joy Phido (SRH)
BSc Hons – Business Management, Qualified Hairdresser,
Natural Hair & Extensions Specialist, Designer, Consultant, HABIA Certified Educator,
Entrepreneur, Speaker, Business Start-up Coach/ Adviser, Mentor, Member UK Hairdressing Council, Qualified Teacher, NLP Certified Practitioner, ILEX Certified Legal Administrator

HEALTHY HAIR VS GLAMOROUS HAIR

HEALTHY HAIR VS GLAMOROUS HAIR

Before now, looking glamorous has always been a decision making issue which involved either, or.  Damage your natural hair and wear glamorous hairstyle seen and known in today’s society or keep your natural hair and do not fit into or welcomed in most parts of the society.  This is what is happening in our society of today.

Wearing natural hairstyles that are stylish and look glamorous at the same time has always been a difficult compromise.  Lots of stylist struggle to understand how to help their clients wear natural healthy glamorous hair.  They encourage you to either damage/ lose your natural hair to look glamorous with jazzy hair styles or maintain your natural hair and lose out on different glamorous options that allow you to enhance your look with variety of styles. This is what is causing our girls to go bald before getting old. The black hair community is the most affected as we have the highest rate of traction alopecia among all races.

Here at World of Braiding & Extensions, we have taken glamour and natural healthy hair to a new dimension.  We want you to have the best of both worlds.  Choose the image you want while maintaining your hair.  Enhance your natural look to suit your chosen image. GLAM YOUR LOOK! KEEP YOUR HAIR!!.  That’s our motto. Our glamorous natural hairstyles give you the look you want which gives you the confidence to achieve and open doors to every opportunity that comes your way.  We don’t want you to compromise your looks for the health of your hair.  We want you to have the best of both worlds.  Glamour and healthy hair.

See our Youtube videos which helps you to make your choices.

 

 

Email us to join our mailing list:

info@worldofbraiding.com Telephone Contact: 0208 983 9815

www.worldofbraiding.com, www.worldofbraidingacademy.com

 

Joy Phido (SRH)

Natural Hair & Extensions Specialist, Consultant, Designer and Educator

Independent Business Consultant.

PROBLEMS WITH RELAXING THE HAIRLINE FOR WEAVE

PROBLEMS WITH CHEMICALLY RELAXING THE HAIRLINE FOR A PERFECT WEAVE

My recent encounter with a client who has been hooked with chemically relaxing her hairline was quite an experience.  She has been doing this to have a perfect weave for a long time.  Two issues are at stake here.  Client thinks the best way to look glamorous is to chemically relax the hairline to get that perfect weave. Stylist recommends relaxing the hairline to get the perfect weave.  Both ideas are not good for the health of your hair.  What you find is the hairline gets damaged while you still have healthy hair at the back.

My client above wanted a different hairstyle because her hair could not handle a weave anymore and this is because the natural hairline is now completely damaged.

This is an issue I am coming in contact with constantly. How do you deal with such an issue?  First she complained about the last hairstyle she was wearing and how the stylist had done a bad job.  I take a professional look at this hair and it needed an expert like me to create a hairstyle that is wearable. It took hours to fill in an empty hairline. The interesting part of the encounter was that this client was fussy about how her hair should look.  I had to explain every step of the way for her to understand how difficult the process was to give her a look that will suit her face as well as cover the damage. What an experience.

In my experience of working with clients, lots of women want to have the most glamorous Beyonce natural looking hair that everyone thinks is growing from their scalp.  We love to wear the weave but we don’t want anyone to know we are wearing a weave.  Instead of applying chemical relaxers to damage the hairline, I recommend the following

  1. Wear a lace weave like Beyonce but stay away from the glue as these causes a lot of damage unless you are using the service of a professional.  Stick to the comb attachment where necessary.
  2. Try the micro braids on the hairline with tree braid plaits and no-one will be the wiser while you wear the weave at the back
  3. Wear a full head closure weave and use very good quality extensions as they sit better on the head.
  4. Get a professional to do your weave and they will not force you to have a chemical relaxer hairline
  5. Try other hairstyles like the tree braid weave or 100% human hair braids

 

REMEMBER; DO NOT DAMAGE YOUR HAIR SIMPLY BECAUSE OF A LATEST HAIRSTYLE.  STYLES WILL COME AND GO, BUT YOUR HAIR SHOULD BE AVAILABLE FOR THE NEXT LATEST HAIR TREND. FOR ENQUIRIES AND QUESTIONS, CONTACT US.

Joy Phido

Natural Virgin Hair Specialist,  Hair Extensions Expert, Braids & Extensions Consultant, Natural Hair Business Trainer & Adviser

www.worldofbraiding.com, www.worldofbraidingacademy.com

info@worldofbraiding.com

Tel: 0208 983 9815

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