TOP 10 HEALTHY OILS FOR THE NATURAL BLACK AFRO HAIR

 

TOP 10 HEALTHY OILS FOR THE NATURAL BLACK AFRO HAIR 

By Joy Phido – Master Natural Hair & Extensions Educator, Consultant & Designer

Natural Afro Hair

Natural Afro Hair

Over 17 years ago when I fully got interested in commercial hair experience, I became more and more interested in finding out what is in our hair products and what will help it become healthy. This interest has helped me in my business of offering natural hair service to my children, friends and clients alike.

The height of my interest became more intensified when I started reading books on what is causing damage to the natural hair especially the Afro Black Hair and as someone who had chosen to practice and teach the Natural hair techniques, it was obvious that I had to understand products and how they help the hair stay healthy.  After continuing to read books, research on the internet, watching videos etc, the messages where complicated, confusing and challenging especially when you consider that most people are not focusing on working with the Black Afro hair type. I decided to invest time and money to take up trainings in the Natural Cosmetics manufacturing which I completed this February 2013 to qualify and earn my CPD in Natural Cosmetics manufacturing.

My understanding and continuous experience is that the more we embrace our natural hair, the more we should learn about natural hair products which work to give us best results. My training has exposed me to read more on the labels of hair products.  A major blow to my understanding was the continuous use of Petroleum in the ingredients of our products.  Extensive research and knowledge exposed the fact that Petroleum comes from what is also known as Rock Oil / crude oil. Due to its quick availability and cheap sources, these oils are used in the form of Mineral oils known as Paraffin and Vaseline.  This is a topic for another write up but for now, the truth is that we should look elsewhere for sources that work for our body without too much processing in the form of thousands of ingredients found in nature that can be used in hair, skin and food products. These ingredients work to make every hair type healthy.

While watching our videos and DVDs, we have shown our Hydration Moisturising Mix spray which is a natural oil mix and the questions we constantly get are what is the content of our oil mix.  This mix was made from my constant work with natural hair and the fact that I get good elasticity and quick moisturising result from these hair type instead of Braid sheen or heavy cream moisturisers. Below is a list of my 10 favorite ingredients in natural hair ingredient oils and what they provide for our hair.  Remember these are oil mixes which should only be used in the form of sprays and not as creams.  You can use any combination of the oils to create your mix depending on the benefits you are expecting.

TOP 10 HEALTHY OILS FOR YOUR NATURAL AFRO HAIR

1. Castor Seed Oil  

castor oil seed

castor oil seed

castor oil

castor oil

This is a fatty, thick, sticky, liquid, stable oil which does not go rancid easily. It protects against weather and wind. It makes the hair shiny and provides water protection which is why it is a humectant.  It has anti-fungal properties which cleans the scalp, and help the hair follicles clear and prepare itself for better hair growth. Some people say it helps to grow their hair so apply it to eye lashes and to the hair temples to increase the thickness of thinning edges.

2. Jojoba Oil

jojoba oil

jojoba oil

This oil is the best oil for hair and skin.  Its properties are numerous to mention. It has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. It is the nearest to sebum which is nature’s natural oil attached to each strand of our hair. Jojoba therefore trick nature to think that it has produced enough sebum especially for black hair as our hair is naturally dry. Because it is very similar to your natural hair oils, jojoba oil can be used to balance oil production at the scalp, aiding overproducing glands that cause oily hair and also treats hair problems such as dandruff, seborrhoea, dry and damaged hair.  It has a very protective quality for hair as it is a humectant which helps it to hold moisture perfect for adding to damaged ends. It is easily absorbed by the skin and is used extensively in hair care. It softens and improves suppleness.  Jojoba is also non-greasy and will give your hair a healthy, natural shine and add volume to your hair.

 

3. Avocado/Avocado Oil

This oil is very rich with vitamins A, D, E, and contains more potassium than bananas. It is easily absorbed into the skin and hair and

avocado oil

avocado oil

avocado oil is a quick way to get multiple nutrients onto your scalp for improved hair growth.  Very good when the skin and hair is dry, tired and lacks lustre. It spreads well and very quickly and thoroughly absorbs, giving shine and softness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. Argan Oil

Argan oil

Argan oil

 

 

This oil is very rich in Omega 6 essential fatty acids which stimulate, protect and regenerates helping to make the skin and hair soft, supple and elastic. Argan oil will add shine, tame frizz, help straighten your hair, or enhance your natural curls. It is seen in the industry at the moment as one of the wonder oils to use as is noted in all mixtures – infused with Argan /Moroccan oil.

 

 

 

 

5. Olive Oil

Traditionally most natural vegetable oils are good for food, skin and hair and Olive oil is one instance where this is most prominent. It

Olive oil

Olive oil

is very rich oil in nutrients hence very prominent in Mediterranean diets.  Due to its fattiness is very good for dry hair, stops trans-epidermal water loss helping to maintain moisture making it a humectant. It has nourishing, softening and protective properties.  It is good for treating dry hair, dry damaged scalp, irritated and sensitive scalp.

 

 

 

 

6. Sweet Almond / Almond Oil

Almond oil

Almond oil

You will occasionally be confronted with Sweet Almond or simply Almond oil.  I usually buy anyone I find. You can take your time to understand what the difference really is but for hair, I love Almond oil.  By massaging a few drops of almond oil into your scalp adds a healthy glow to your hair.  It helps make your hair stronger, thicker and adds shine as well as nourishing and smoothing hair cuticles. Almond oil has also been known to facilitate hair growth, making it strong and thick and controls hair breakage.

 

7. Vegetable Glycerin

vegetable glycerin

vegetable glycerin

Natural Hair products containing vegetable glycerine act as strong humectants—meaning, they attract and bind water to themselves acting as a remedy for hair problems. Vegetable glycerine also creates a layer of oil over the hair strand, thus aiding in the retention of moisture.  To stay away from frizz in curly and afro hair, regular application over time is beneficial as it does not allow the hair to dry out or tangle.  Glycerin for hair is really amazing. Try combining it with aloe vera juice to create an even better moisture spritz!

 

 

 

 

8. Sunflower Oil

This oil contains high levels of Omega 6 essential fatty acid, has high vitamin E and high lecithin content – a natural emulsifier.  It has a

sunflower oil

sunflower oil

nourishing effect on the skin and hair. It absorbs quickly without leaving a sticky feeling. It is also used to treat seborrhoea and structurally damaged hair. Sunflower oil in a product helps other active ingredients to absorb quickly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. Grape Seed Oil

grapeseed oil

grapeseed oil

 

 

Grape Seed oil is high in Omega 6. It is a long oil and so offers excellent lubrication qualities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10. Neem Oil

Has a very powerful antibacterial and antifungal property which is very useful for the hair. Treats head lice and dandruff.

neem oil

neem oil

I have tried to concentrate on oils that are easily seen and readily available to buy from Natural food shops and markets. As some of these ingredients are indigenous to other countries, I suggest you buy them from “fair trade,” companies where the people who make the product are paid fair wages!

Where possible, use Organic and unrefined versions of these ingredients as they work best and ensure the retention of nutrients.

However, any version is better than applying chemicals or petroleum products on your hair.

 

 

Are there other oils you have worked with that give you great results?  Why not share with us some of your personal experiences on oils and what they do for you.

If any of the issues mentioned in this article has affected you, or you have an experience you will like to share with us, please feel free to do so.  Also email us if you need our advice on any issues in this article.

Tel: +44 1702 339 858, mob: +44 7946 439 057

info@worldobraiding.com

www.worldofbraiding.comhttp://www.worldofbraidingacademy.com

Follow us on Social media:

http://www.youtube.com/worldofbraiding,

http://www.facebook.com/worldofbraidingandextensions,

http://www.twitter.com/worldofbraiding,

http://www.linkedIn.com/joyphido

http://www.tumblr.com/worldofbraiding

Skype – joyphido

 

 

Joy a mother with her four children

Joy a mother with her four children

About your Trainer

Joy Phido is an internationally established Natural Hair and Extensions Educator, Specialist, & Designer.  Joy is a mother with 4 children and has first-hand experience on how difficult it is to work and run a family especially in the Western world.  After working in corporate Nigeria as a banker and corporate England in telecoms, Joy tried her hands on buy and sell businesses which failed. She eventually realized that to succeed in business; you need to have a skill in your hands first. In addition to her natural passion and skill in hair designing, Joy took series of professional training from across different continents and now has the mission to give students real skill of running a hair Business. This is why World of Braiding has become a success and it is this passion of owning your own skill that motivates Joy in helping people who come to World of Braiding & Extensions for training.

Joy has a BSc in Business Admin, a qualified NVQ Level 3 Hairdresser, a State Registered Hairdresser (SRH) with UK Hairdressing Council, has over 20 years Natural Hair & Extensions experience.  She is also a qualified teacher, an NLP practitioner with varied career experiences.

Before setting up World of Braiding & Extensions, Joy started teaching Braiding, Weaving & Extensions with the Newham Council Adult Education Department (Newceys) for 5 years at 4 Centres with some classes as big as 30 students. As the Chief Executive, Trainer and Artistic Director at World of Braiding & Extensions, her passion is to make Natural Hair and Extensions a professional skill as well as help stylist understand how to make money while designing glamorous clients.

Joy’s passion for natural hair is also associated with the fact that she experienced hair damage with chemical relaxers which made her start wearing natural hairstyles thereafter.  She can be seen as the Doctor  for healthy natural Afro hair where all her children wear natural hairstyles and she is no stranger on the internet writing from her blogs, teaching on Youtube with step-by-step videos to constantly enrich students’ knowledge with over 3million views and over 18,000 subscribers.  She is also a Natural Hair & Extensions Business Mentor and adviser helping students & practitioners not only on how to get into the industry but how to become successful and prosper in the industry.  She brings a wealth of knowledge and personal experience to this training to enhance your learning.  World of Braiding & Extensions is constantly exhibiting at Hair events, giving talks in conference, taking part in major projects and designing hair for fashion shows and events. 

 

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TOP 5 TIPS ON HOW TO GROW NATURAL BLACK HAIR

 

TOP 5 TIPS ON HOW TO GROW NATURAL HAIR

We constantly get contacted by Black women all over the world for guide on how to grow their natural hair.  These questions vary hence we have made it our business to add our  focus on educating Black women in particular on hints and tips of how to care for the natural hair.  We are always creating videos on our Youtube channel to help people as well so please visit youtube and search worldofbraiding  channel to find out more.

natural black hair

natural black hair

Generally most people believe that the natural Black hair does not grow or when it grows; it does not grow as quickly as they would want.  Generally Hair grows at an average of ½ inch per month (about 1.2cm per month).  This comes to about 13cm a year.  You will be able to retain length and notice growth in your hair based on how well you treat your Black hair.

Here are some basic 5 tips to help grow your natural Black hair:

healthy foods

healthy foods

1. START WITH A HEALTHY LIFESTYLE:  Hair grows from inside and hair is a fiber that is part of our cells which grows from the subdivision of our cells in the hair follicles.  For this reason, we need natural healthy food that the body can easily break down for digestion in order for our hair to grow.  The foods we need for hair growth are fresh fruits and vegetables, meat, fish, eggs, nuts and wholemeal foods.

2. PLENTY OF WATER:  Due to the unhealthy lifestyles we are forced to live with – synthetic foods, processed foods, genetically

drinking water

Drinking water

modified foods, toxins in the air etc, the body is constantly battling with toxins which do not encourage healthy body for hair growth.  To solve this problem, the body therefore needs lots of water for detoxification, lubricate food for digestion, aid digestion and reproduce the cells for hair growth.  We also need lots of water to hydrate the hair so it does not become too dry.

moisturising products

moisturising products

3. NATURAL & MOISTURISING HAIR PRODUCTS:  After the hair has grown out of the follicles, it needs care in order to avoid breakage.  The natural Afro hair is coily and naturally dry due to lack of sebum travelling down the hair strands.  Due to the coils and dryness of the Afro hair, it tangles itself and breaks easily with little manipulation.  Use of wrong products such as sulphates in Shampoos, silicons in conditioners, chemical relaxers, dyes and use of heat etc cause the hair more dryness which lead to more breakage. Start using natural moisturising oils to help make the hair supple, easy to manage and grow quicker.  These oils include jojoba oil, castor oil, rosemary oil, peppermint oil, shea butter, argan oil, broccoli seed oil etc.  They contain active properties that help stimulate blood flow and make hair grow as well as contain moisturising properties that make the hair manageable and easy to care for.

4. MANIPULATION:  When the natural hair has grown out, it requires less manipulation to avoid breakage.  Handle with care as natural

two strand twist

two strand twist

hair is a very delicate fibre that breaks easily. Less manipulation means less combing, pulling, tugging, tucking, ponytails, clips, blow dryer, flat irons, tight braiding, tight weaving etc.

5. PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLES:  When the hair has grown out, you do not need to leave it hanging out all the time as it requires time and attention to care for it.  You need healthy natural protective hair styles to retain your length and style.  These styles include 2 strand twist, single plaits, cornrows, braids with extensions etc to help to grow and retain its length.  These styles reduce  manipulation.  Remember not to hold the scalp too tight as it leads to hair loss and alopecia.

For any questions, comments or ability to add your personal experiences to our write up, please feel free to leave your comments or contact us using our details below for discussions.

World of Braiding & Extensions Group of Companies is made up of 4 major Service areas.
1. World of Braiding & Extensions Professional Natural Hair & Extensions Business School which offers education, knowledge & skill to students around the world with the mission to – get women into work & business.   We train our students with the best ways to apply all the different natural hair & extensions techniques.
2. World of Braiding & Extensions Professional Natural Hair & Extensions Centre offering healthy hair & extensions service on client’s hair with the passion for healthy signature natural hair glamour.  We consult with all clients before taking on a service of hair extensions.  We care for your hair and ensure there are no damages.
3. World of Braiding & Extensions Black Hair Education & Solutions Center where our focus is to train Black women in the understanding of their natural hair and how to care for it to avoid damage & hair loss.
4. World of Braiding & Extensions Natural Hair Accessories & Extensions center.  Providing all the materials you need to care for your hair.
If any of the issues mentioned in this article has affected you, or you have an experience you will like to share with us, please feel free to do so.  Also email us if you need our advice on any issues in this article.

Tel: +44 1702 339 858, mob: +44 7946 439 057

info@worldobraiding.com

www.worldofbraiding.comhttp://www.worldofbraidingacademy.com

Follow us on Social media:

http://www.youtube.com/worldofbraiding,

http://www.facebook.com/worldofbraidingandextensions,

http://www.twitter.com/worldofbraiding,

http://www.linkedIn.com/joyphido

http://www.tumblr.com/worldofbraiding

Skype – joyphido

 

Joy a mother with her four children

Joy a mother with her four children

About your Trainer

Joy Phido is an internationally established Natural Hair and Extensions Educator, Specialist, & Designer.  Joy is a mother with 4 children and has first-hand experience on how difficult it is to work and run a family especially in the Western world.  After working in corporate Nigeria as a banker and corporate England in telecoms, Joy tried her hands on buy and sell businesses which failed. She eventually realized that to succeed in business; you need to have a skill in your hands first. In addition to her natural passion and skill in hair designing, Joy took series of professional training from across different continents and now has the mission to give students real skill of running a hair Business. This is why World of Braiding has become a success and it is this passion of owning your own skill that motivates Joy in helping people who come to World of Braiding & Extensions for training.

Joy has a BSc in Business Admin, a qualified NVQ Level 3 Hairdresser, a State Registered Hairdresser (SRH) with UK Hairdressing Council, has over 20 years Natural Hair & Extensions experience.  She is also a qualified teacher, an NLP practitioner with varied career experiences.

Before setting up World of Braiding & Extensions, Joy started teaching Braiding, Weaving & Extensions with the Newham Council Adult Education Department (Newceys) for 5 years at 4 Centres with some classes as big as 30 students. As the Chief Executive, Trainer and Artistic Director at World of Braiding & Extensions, her passion is to make Natural Hair and Extensions a professional skill as well as help stylist understand how to make money while designing glamorous clients.

Joy’s passion for natural hair is also associated with the fact that she experienced hair damage with chemical relaxers which made her start wearing natural hairstyles thereafter.  She can be seen as the Doctor  for healthy natural Afro hair where all her children wear natural hairstyles and she is no stranger on the internet writing from her blogs, teaching on Youtube with step-by-step videos to constantly enrich students’ knowledge with over 3million views and over 18,000 subscribers.  She is also a Natural Hair & Extensions Business Mentor and adviser helping students & practitioners not only on how to get into the industry but how to become successful and prosper in the industry.  She brings a wealth of knowledge and personal experience to this training to enhance your learning.  World of Braiding & Extensions is constantly exhibiting at Hair events, giving talks in conference, taking part in major projects and designing hair for fashion shows and events. 

GROWING BACK HAIR LOSS

GROWING BACK DAMAGED HAIR AND HAIR LOSS

My client came round yesterday for her hair appointment. We started to work on her hair as we have always done. Only there was something different this time. A bit about my client – we have been working on her hair for a period and she has a genetic case of hair loss. I have always been concerned about helping to grow her hair back.

Genetic hair loss

Genetic hair loss

Working with hair loss and hair damage clients is something we deal with on a daily basis. This instance is only one of the many cases we deal with on a daily basis but we feel really upset when we deal with hair loss / hair damage problems caused by untrained stylist and wrong styling advice.
We have therefore taken on the responsibility of researching and looking for products that will help regrow our client’s hair with good results. This is why we noticed something different about my client’s hair. I had given my client some natural hair oils in our last appointment and she has been consistent with using it. The oil had made a big difference and I could notice some new growth in her hair. Her scalp which had looked shiny with signs that her hair follicles were closed now looked normal and I could notice the signs of healthy follicles. Are you in hair business to help your clients maintain and grow healthy hair or you are there just to make money.
Regarding the style we were working on; remember your client’s self-esteem and confidence depends on the final outcome your service gives them. I ensure a good consultation is carried out first and then explain how I will work around and with the hair I see. I always work around the hair condition I see and provide my client with the best hairstyle that does not show hair loss or hair damage where applicable.

Cornrow hairstyle for hair loss

Cornrow hairstyle for hair loss

Would you say you help your clients grow back their hair? Do you help them search for solutions to their hair problems? On the other hand, are you part of the problem where you actually encourage your clients to develop hair damage and hair loss? Do you think it will be good for you to help and support your clients to develop healthy hair habits? These are the issues we deal with in our training. A client needs your help to grow their hair and not your help to damage their hair. Take on trainings if you know you are not qualified and help them achieve healthy hair styles.
As a client, find out if your stylist is qualified to work with hair and can help you create not only amazing hair looks but also look after the health of your hair, before you trust them to work on your hair. The problem here is that most stylists have no knowledge of how to work with hair. Worst of all, is the fact that they are untrained, uneducated, unprofessional and are therefore ignorant of what hair needs and how to care for it. My question to clients is – would you go to an untrained doctor for your health needs or to an untrained dentist, optician etc? The same applies to hair. There are so many people practicing hair service who are not trained. These people need training so they can offer good service. You can help them by not taking up their service and encouraging them to take up training.
We are however aware that some clients love cheap unprofessional service and this is why there is so much hair damage especially in the black community. This is a discussion we will have on another occasion. Please do not be one of those clients. Hair service is very important for a person’s self-esteem which helps you achieve great results in life. Do not throw away your self-confidence for cheap service. As a stylist, do not become the person who helped to damage your client’s self-esteem.

WHAT IS HAIR – As a hairstylist some of the issues you will deal with is to understand what a hair strand is, where hair growth takes place, what is in hair strands, how hair grows, the cycles of hair growth, what you need to eat to encourage growth, what your products should contain to help maintain healthy hair, the hairstyles that are good or unhealthy for your hair etc. A hairstylist should understand these points such that when a client complains that her hair is not growing or is getting damaged, you are in a position to suggest or give tips on basic rules to keep the hair healthy. A trained stylist should be in a position to notice when a head of hair is not looking healthy and immediately suggest solutions to address or redress the problem before it gets out of control. A trained stylist can recognise that a physically damaged hair is rough; brittle to the touch, and prone to split ends and can work on helping that client to address the problem etc.
HEALTH AND SAFETY IN HAIR STYLING – As a hairstylist you are the expert on issues relating to hair. You should know the styles that are healthy for your client’s particular hair type. You should know products to avoid on varied textures of hair; you should know how to apply the products, the timing to use and when to take them out of the hair. You should be in a position to know how to test for hair strengths, strand test, incompatibility test, elasticity test, porosity test etc. It is not enough to pack a handful of chemicals and slap on a client’s hair without considering if the hair strand is strong enough to handle the strength of the chemicals in the relaxer or if the porosity of the hair is such that chemicals will not be the best option on the hair.

Female Pattern Hair loss

Female Pattern Hair loss

These are only a few of the issues we have raised in this article. If you have experienced any problems from untrained stylist, we will like to hear about them. As a stylist, if you have had experiences with clients who are not willing to appreciate your skill, we would like to hear from you.

The Premium Natural Hair & Extensions Professionals
Protect your hair; Don’t go bald before you grow old.
Contact No. +44 20 8983 9815
info@worldofbraiding.com

Joy Phido (SRH)

Qualified Cosmetologist, BSc Hons – Business Management,
Natural Hair & Extensions Specialist, Designer, Consultant, HABIA Certified Educator,
Entrepreneur, Speaker, Business Start-up Coach/ Adviser, Mentor, Member UK Hairdressing Council, Qualified Teacher, NLP Certified Practitioner, ILEX Certified Legal Administrator

HEALTHY HAIR VS GLAMOROUS HAIR

HEALTHY HAIR VS GLAMOROUS HAIR

Before now, looking glamorous has always been a decision making issue which involved either, or.  Damage your natural hair and wear glamorous hairstyle seen and known in today’s society or keep your natural hair and do not fit into or welcomed in most parts of the society.  This is what is happening in our society of today.

Wearing natural hairstyles that are stylish and look glamorous at the same time has always been a difficult compromise.  Lots of stylist struggle to understand how to help their clients wear natural healthy glamorous hair.  They encourage you to either damage/ lose your natural hair to look glamorous with jazzy hair styles or maintain your natural hair and lose out on different glamorous options that allow you to enhance your look with variety of styles. This is what is causing our girls to go bald before getting old. The black hair community is the most affected as we have the highest rate of traction alopecia among all races.

Here at World of Braiding & Extensions, we have taken glamour and natural healthy hair to a new dimension.  We want you to have the best of both worlds.  Choose the image you want while maintaining your hair.  Enhance your natural look to suit your chosen image. GLAM YOUR LOOK! KEEP YOUR HAIR!!.  That’s our motto. Our glamorous natural hairstyles give you the look you want which gives you the confidence to achieve and open doors to every opportunity that comes your way.  We don’t want you to compromise your looks for the health of your hair.  We want you to have the best of both worlds.  Glamour and healthy hair.

See our Youtube videos which helps you to make your choices.

 

 

Email us to join our mailing list:

info@worldofbraiding.com Telephone Contact: 0208 983 9815

www.worldofbraiding.com, www.worldofbraidingacademy.com

 

Joy Phido (SRH)

Natural Hair & Extensions Specialist, Consultant, Designer and Educator

Independent Business Consultant.

LOVE YOUR HAIR; YOU WERE BORN THIS WAY

This was a speech given at the International Black Hairitage Month in Paris on 8th October 2011.

LOVE YOUR HAIR – YOU WERE BORN THIS WAY

7 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW WHEN WORKING WITH NATURAL BLACK HAIR

1.    UNDERSTAND THE NATURAL BLACK HAIR BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES TO IT:

80% of the world population are people of colour – Africa, Asia, Latin America and the Caribbean and yet the textbook and scientific understanding of hair – its structure and function comes from research that has been done on Caucasian people. 

The Black Hair industry is a huge industry as statistics show –

Population – USA Black Americans 38,929,319 as at 2010, in the UK 1,148,738 as at 2001, in Africa 1,022,234,000 as at 2010 etc etc. 

Revenue –  UK in 2004, the Black Hair industry was worth £60million.  South Africa in 2002 it was $90million, USA in 2008 it was $14.7billion By 2013 it will be worth $4.2trillion in the USA.

Who owns this industry – Blacks have no control of this industry.  They only own about 30% while the World leader in hair care generally and black hair care in particular is Loreal – a French owned company. In 2000, the company invested $11million in the multi-million dollars Loreal Institute for Ethnic Hair and Skin Research.  Based in Chicago, this centre is to better understand the distinct properties of the hair and skin of people of African descent – fusing science and beauty to develop a wider range of products to sell to people of Black and mixed race across the world.

Why do we need this information?  For us to better understand the scale of what we are dealing with.  
The biggest problem we face within the Black Community is to understand our natural hair and skin.  
We have refused to take on our role but have given have passed on this role to people of other races.  
How can we address this problem?

We have to start by taking stock and asking the most basic questions like - What is natural black /Afro Hair?  
How can you care for it and maintain it? How does it grow? What causes damage? What are the best products for it? 
What are the best tools that work with it? How do we style it? etc etc.  

Black hair is different from all other races in shape and composition. 
It is vulnerable, fragile and requires extra care. 
It is naturally dry and requires extra moisture.

The number of heads that we can help with products, 
tools, styles,  education, information, accessories etc 
are uncountable according to statistics.  
Currently there are no schools teaching Virgin Black Hair.  
We educate ourselves on Hairdressing /cosmetology schools run 
by people of other races whose teachings are based on other hair 
types excluding our hair type. The research and education these 
colleges use are based on Caucasian hair information and knowledge 
and when they mention the Black hair, they call it the most difficult
 and bad hair type.  But we believe there is a reason we were created 
with this hair.  Our first role is to understand how to work with it – 
afterall our great great grand mothers worked with it – Madam C J Walker. 
This is where World of Braiding has taken on the current challenge of 
understanding the virgin Black hair.  Our trainings incorporate understanding 
Afro Hair and how to work with it without altering its natural state. 
Finding out how to glamorise, style, beautify and make it wearable for 
everyday life. We encourage you to understand your hair before you do anything to it.

 2.    GET TRAINING BEFORE YOU START:

No one should undertake working with anything without understanding what it is and how it works.  This also applies to hair.  As a hairdresser, you attend a college and get training to do your job.  This rule should also apply to Virgin Black hair.  Our hair stylist should take up trainings on natural hair before allowed to touch our hair.  This is what is causing the amount of untold damage in the Black hair community as everyone pretends to be an expert in Black hair yet giving the most unbelievable fraudulent advice. With training, you will save a lot of hair damage which is forcing Black people to buy products that do not add value to our hair but continue to drain our pockets and leaving us continuously poor while other communities get richer on our money.  Time we stop being used as money making machines for manufacturers of damaging products for Black hair.

3.    WORK WITH THE RIGHT PRODUCTS:

What products are you putting into your hair?  Experience and lots of research is currently showing that the biggest problem the Black hair faces is the use of the right products.  Reading the labels of shampoos, conditioners etc show that products targeted at black hair contains damaging chemical substances that further dry out the already naturally dry black hair.  Knowing the right product that works well with our hair type will save a lot of hair damage which is forcing us to buy more products that continue to fill our bathroom shelves but do not add value to our lives.

4.    WORK WITH THE RIGHT SKILLS / STYLING:

What hair styles are you wearing?  Are the styles you work with healthy for your hair? Wearing your hair styles like braids, weaves, extensions etc on a base of natural black hair is very useful as your hair is protected and there are no pressures on your natural hair.  This is where hair stylist need training again as presently, they are telling their clients to first apply chemicals on their natural hair before these styles can be worn.  This is wrong information and it is based on ignorance.  When braids, weaves and extensions are applied on an already chemically processed hair, this leads straight to damage as has been experienced in our community even among celebrities who have enough financial resources but because they are dealing with ignorant stylist, they end up with bald hair, patches etc  where Naomi Campbell is a well-known example.   

5.    WORK WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS:

What hair tools are you using to work with your black hair? Do these tools work with your hair?  What combs, clips, brushes etc do you work with.

6.    WORKING WITH THE RIGHT IMAGES AND ROLE MODELS:

We need to support and encourage our celebrities who model and show off their natural hairstyles.  Teyana Taylor, Jada Pinket Smith, Alycia Keys, Brandy, Solange Knowles are a few to mention.  These images need to be glamorised and portrayed in magazines, newspapers etc.  These magazines need to do more to encourage black women to love wearing hairstyles that are less damaging to their natural hair.

7.    WORKING WITH THE RIGHT ACCESSORIES:

Black hair needs to be beautified and glamorised.  What are we using to give us the look we want and need to look the part. Clips, pins, hair combs etc.  We need to research more so as to see beauty  from our point of view.

 

Nature did not make a mistake with our hair.  We have the most versatile, creative and easy to work with hair type.  Do not ruin it.  Work well with it.

If you have been affected by wrong style, bad hair stylist, wrong information / advice, please feel free to contact us with your information.  We are happy to advice you on your hair dilemmas.

 

By

Joy Phido

CEO & Founder of World of Braiding & Extensions Ltd

Joy is a Natural Hair and Extensions Specialist, Consultant, Designer and Educator.  She is a Hair Business Coach, Mentor & Adviser etc.  She has been practising Natural Hair and Extensions for over 25 years and has been in Hair Business Education for over 7years.  With careers span over various industries, Joy is a well-established business woman, a Professional NVQ Level 3 Hairdresser and a member of the UK Hairdressing Council.  Joy has undertaken training in Natural Hair and Extensions from USA, UK & various African Countries. As hair plays a major role in the Black Community, Joy is an advocate and supporter of growing and developing this industry for the benefit and enrichment of the Black Community.  She is a firm believer of glamorous healthy natural hairstyles for Black Women as she knows it contributes to self-confidence. She has written and continues to write/ give talks on how to grow the Black hair industry. 

 

Contacts

Telephone: +44 208 983 9815, +44 7946 439 057

info@worldofbraiding.com

www.worldofbraiding.com, www.worldofbraidingacademy.com



START AND GROW YOUR NATURAL HAIR BUSINESS

11 STEPS TO START & GROW YOUR NATURAL HAIR BUSINESS

 

1                   PREPARE YOUR MINDSET: 

This is a new field or area of business for you.  Learn to prepare yourself mentally.  Bible says you must sew before you reap.  Olympics winners don’t just get on the field and win gold medals.  They go through a lot of training and work hard to get what they want.  You have to look at all the possibilities before you decide to start in this field.

2                   INVEST IN A TRAINING:

To prepare yourself and become the best in this industry you need guidance.  To gain guidance you need to invest time and money to get the best skill.  World of Braiding is happy to offer you the best guaranteed professional and certified training you can find.

3                   PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE:

Be prepared to spend time practicing your skill.  Now you have the skill, if you stop practicing, you will lose it.  Practice makes perfect and if you want to be perfect, you must practice.  This helps to make you one of the best in the industry. Start with the Training head, then gradually grow to work with friends and family.

4                   START BY OFFERING CHEAP /FREE SERVICE:

From your practice on the training head, you are now getting gradually confident and sure of what you are doing.  You want to start working on clients so you can guage their emotions, requirements, opinions etc. Offer your service free or for very cheap prices to help you completely take control and gain your confidence.  By offering this service, you will know what client’s expectations are and how they like their hair.  This will help you build a client base as well. This gets you started on your way to become a natural hair technician.

5                   BUILD A PORTFOLIO OF YOUR WORK:

Remember the hair and beauty business is very visual.  People want to see what you claim to know.  How would they see what you know if there is no proof in a photograph.  Building a portfolio seals your capability and gives proof of what you are capable of doing. It also gives you a point of reference for your clients to have confidence in your work. Please avoid taking other people’s pictures from the internet or celebrities pictures as clients will not be fooled by this action.

6                   START TO MARKET YOUR SERVICE:

Experienced business people say this is probably the most important part of a business and also the most hated.  Your business works around people.  People need to know that you exist. The only way for people to know about your business is when you tell them about it and this is what marketing does for you.  Circulate your information around people.  Some of the popular ways include: word of mouth, fliers, advert in magazines, brochures and the most current is the Internet – social media, website etc.  World of Braiding is happy to give you tips on how to sell and market your business.

7                   SET UP YOUR BUSINESS TO BE LEGAL:

Register your business as a legal entity. This helps you to network professionally with other businesses. It gives you corporate identity and the ability to become the boss of your own business.

8                   GOOD CUSTOMER CARE & QUALITY SERVICE:

A stable business survives on clients multiplied by the no. of usage.  Now that you have clients; how do you treat or attend to them? Do you give quality service that you are proud of? Remember the rule of life about “give and take”. You need to sew in order to reap. Do not take from where you did not sew. So to get your clients coming back avoid shoddy pretentious job. Give your best at all times – 200% where possible. Treat your clients well and they will keep coming back. This proves you have a going concern and that your business will survive.  Do not take it for granted that your clients will always come back or that they do not have a choice. Your clients will go to somebody else if you do not give them what they want. Also remember to thank them always for choosing to come to you instead of your competitor.

9                   CONTINUOUS PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT: (KEEP UPDATING YOUR KNOWLEDGE)

You have to continuously improve on your knowledge. Beauty is in constant motion as is seen on celebrities. Continuous learning is one area where Black Salons are losing out on their clients. You need to continuously improve on your knowledge. No one has sole custody of knowledge in the world and you are also never too old to learn. You have to keep improving on your current skill as the hair beauty industry is constantly changing.  Something you knew yesterday may have improved or changed today.  There are so many ways of improving on your knowledge – Attend hair shows, workshops, seminars, networking events, buy magazines and read articles etc. Remember other professionals such as Medical Doctors, Accountants, Solicitors etc always constantly improve on their knowledge.  You are a professional and you can only be the best if you keep your knowledge updated. You owe your clients their right to have latest hairstyles.

10              ADD OTHER RETAIL PRODUCTS TO YOUR BUSINESS:

Your clients always need products to keep their style fresh at home.   You need to help them by stocking these products so it saves them travelling to the shops to buy fake products from ignorant people as they have no experience about these products and do not know what they are talking about.  Most times they end us advising your clients to buy the wrong products.  You are the expert and you are in the best position to advise your clients and give them the best  products to meet their needs. We are happy to introduce you to suppliers that will help you grow your retail side of your business.

11              MAINTAIN A DATABASE OF YOUR CLIENT:

Keep records of your client’s activities with you. This way you will always know what style they had the last time they were with you. You also need this information to stay in touch with them.  If you stop contacting them, they think you don’t care and will go to a different place for the service they want.  You do not want to be forgotten.

 

Wishing you the best in your business start-up and growth.

 

World of Braiding is happy to support you with all the points mentioned above so you can grow and be successful.

 

Joy is the CEO of World of Braiding & Extensions

World No. 1 Professional Natural Hair Academy.

info@worldofbraiding.com, +44 208 983 9815, 07946 439 057

www.worldofbraiding.com

 

HOW CHEMICAL RELAXERS AFFECT YOUR HAIR

HOW CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS AFFECT YOUR HAIR

 – ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

WHAT ARE THE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN CHEMICAL RELAXERS

There are two major types of Chemical Relaxers – Lye and No Lye Relaxers.

LYE RELAXERS – has its main ingredient as Sodium Hydroxide also known as Lye or Caustic Soda which is a corrosive substance. This type of relaxer is also known as a BASE relaxer as it requires the coating of the scalp with petroleum jelly to protect the scalp from being irritated or burned during its application.  Lye Relaxers are made with Sodium Hydroxide mixed with water, petroleum jelly and emulsifiers to create a creamy consistency.

The ingredient Sodium Hydroxide is at the extreme end of alkalinity on the pH level of 13 and 14.

To discuss pH level, we need to understand how important it is and how it impacts on our actions. It technically stands for “potential for hydrogen ion concentration.”

The system allows us to compare our body chemistry to the chemical makeup of our environment.  pH is a medical term that describes the balance of your system and it refers to the condition of metabolic changes. pH level means how acidic or alkaline something is. The lower the pH level the more acidic it is.  The higher the pH level the more alkaline it is.  pH is based on a scale of 0-14 where the level of 7 represents neutrality and pure water is at this level.

Understanding the varying ends of the scale and how they affect us helps us to better understand what the chemical relaxer contains and how it affects our hair.  Healthy hair and skin has a pH factor of around 4.5 to 5.5.  If it is exposed to something more acidic or on a lower pH than itself, it hardens, becomes brittle and burns off when at the extreme end of the acidic scale – hydrochloric acid.  When it is exposed to something more alkaline, it tends to swell, soften, and melt off when at the extreme end of the alkaline scale – Caustic Soda. Here is an example of the pH levels on some basic products and substances.  Note where Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda) is placed on the scale – highest level on the pH level.

pH level indicator

pH level indicator

Source: Dr. Don Colbert’s book “The Seven Pillars of Health”,

Manufacturers of lye chemical relaxers vary the sodium hydroxide content of their solution from 5% to 10% and the pH level between 10 and 14.

Also note that Sodium Hydroxide is the same active ingredient in the household liquid drain cleaners or sink un-blockers which led the United States Government – Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to ban the use of more than 10% of this ingredient in household liquid drain cleaners because it corrodes and damages the drain pipes.  This same ingredient in generally the same dosage is what is used in chemical relaxers applied on Black women’s hair.

In general, the more the percentage of sodium hydroxide used, the higher the pH level and the quicker the chemical reaction will take place on the hair, and this leads to the greater the danger of hair damage.

“NO LYE” relaxers

The increasing concerns concerning the potential damage and dangers associated to the use of Sodium Hydroxide led to the discovery the “No Lye” relaxers.  There are three main types of the No lye relaxers.

Type 1 – operates on the same general principle as lye relaxers but uses a slightly weaker alkaline agent – a). Potassium Hydroxide, b)  Lithium Hydroxide or c)Guanidine Hydroxide.

Type 2 – uses ammonium thioglycolate which is also known as Perm Salt for its use in permanent waves.

Type 3 – is the relaxers sold for home use with the active ingredient as ammonium sulphite and ammonium bisulphite.  These ingredients selectively reduce the bonds in the hair and is much weaker and slower to act.

All these chemicals are designed to soften and swell the hair’s fibers and alter its natural setting.

HOW CHEMICAL RELAXERS WORK ON YOUR HAIR

When the chemical solution is applied on your hair either by a professional in a salon, or at home with your home relaxer kits, the caustic “lye cream” swells open the hair’s fibers, penetrates the protein structure of the hair and weakens its internal bonds, causing the natural curls to loosen out. This then alters the entire hair structure causing it to change by this action. The chemical melts down the protective layer of the hair shaft. Leave it for too long or apply too much and the hair will turn to a mushy paste and melt off which is the corrosive nature of the chemicals.

To understand the way the chemical relaxer works with hair, we need to have a basic glimpse of the hair strand.

Damaged hair strand

Damaged hair strand

The Human hair is the subject of a remarkably wide range of scientific investigations. Its chemical and physical properties are of importance to the cosmetics industry, forensic scientists, and to biomedical researchers.

Hair is made of keratin – a protein found in also in nails and skin.  It is keratin that gives hair its strength and elasticity.

Each strand of hair is made of 3 parts. Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla.

Cuticle is the outer layer of the hair strand and looks like scales on a fish or tiles on a roof.  They are colourless, transparent and easily damaged. The Cuticle layer protects the hair strand.  The Cortex makes up the main bulk of the hair strand. This is the place where all the chemical and physical bonds of the hair are found. The bonds determine the elasticity, texture and curl of the hair. The Medulla is the central part of the hair strand consisting of cells filled with air spaces. A medulla is present in most hairs with the exception of thin hair.

Our main concern in chemical relaxing process is the Cortex as this is what gives the hair its curl, strength and elasticity.  It contains the bonds which affect our chemical relaxing process.  The bonds are 3 types – Disulphide bonds, Salt bonds and Hydrogen bonds.  The Disulphide /Sulphur bonds are the strongest and can only be broken when chemical relaxers are applied to the hair.

When the chemical relaxer is applied to the hair shaft, it causes the cuticle to swell allowing the product to penetrate into the cortex of the hair.  This then breaks the Sulphur bonds releasing one atom of the sulphur bond and replacing it with a new bond lanthionine. The hair now has one sulphur and one lanthionine bond.  Once this bond has been broken, the hair has now lost its natural shape and resistance and is now straight. This is what has altered the natural curl of the hair strand.   Thus, when you use chemicals to make curly hair straight, you have not only changed the natural pattern of the hair but you have also lost its strength and elasticity.  The action of using chemical relaxers on the hair has been likened to burning wood into ash where it cannot become wood again. This is one of the problems about using relaxers as once you’ve applied them to your hair, there’s no turning back. There’s no way to reverse the process except to work with new growth.  The degree to which the hair is successfully straightened depends on the type and strength of chemical used, the time it’s left in the hair, and the underlying health or weakness of the hair being treated.  The treated portion of the hair moves away from the scalp as the new growth of untreated hair sprouts up from the roots, requiring periodic retreatment (about every 6–8 weeks) to maintain a consistent appearance.

HOW DOES CHEMICAL RELAXERS AFFECT YOU?

Although the general argument for relaxing hair is to increase manageability and flexibility in styling the Black hair, its damaging consequences are numerous to mention.  Most Black women have been brainwashed to think that Black hair does not grow long, is dry, will break off, is unmanageable, is too hard to comb and needs straightening in order to manage it.  The reasons for these excuses are due to ignorance and lack of sensible information on how to manage the uniqueness of the Black hair.  Most Black women will wait for hours on a busy Saturday morning at the hairdressing salon waiting for their turn, when they finally get seen, the hairdresser slaps the chemical relaxer on their hair, and ask them to wait in another chair for the relaxer to take effect.  It starts irritating and burning  your scalp but because the hairdresser is very busy she tells you to hold on and in the end you have your scalp burnt with large crumps of skin scaling from your head and in some instances the hair is completely melted away.   We do not give the burning sensation any thought as we imagine it to be normal.

Chemical relaxers generally is dangerous but in an untrained hands is worse and is a recipe for untold disaster.  Caustic soda on hair is like putting bleach on clothes.  These dangerous ingredients are corrosive and if left on the hair longer than required will melt the hair which explains why your hair does not get any straighter but thinner as it continues to melt away the protective layers of the hair strand.

chemical hair damage

chemical hair damage

Chemicals in your hair is more than just changing the texture of your hair.  The instruction for applying chemicals involves wearing gloves on your hands because it is corrosive but there is no instruction on what to use to protect the scalp.  For the reason that the scalp is exposed to these chemicals, they absorb into your skin tissues, through your cells and into your blood stream thereby exposing your health to chemical toxins.  The dosage of this exposure is constantly increased depending on the number of times you apply your relaxer e.g 6 to 12 times a year and for an average of the number of years you apply them.  This is why it is a taboo to apply these chemicals on children as has been seen to have been practices by  some mothers of children as young as 2 years. Imagine the amount of toxin in their body by the time they turn 30 years?

As these chemicals can enter the body through the skin and the lungs, it is also a known fact that this is one of the occupational hazards of beauticians and hairdressers as they are constantly inhaling and working with these chemicals which has been linked to tumors and cancers.

patchy scalp

patchy scalp

Considering the fact that we are constantly exposed to a barrage of external and environmental pollutants, the least we can do is help ourselves to reduce the amount of chemicals we put in our body. You are therefore  personally responsible for putting toxic cosmetic chemicals into your body through chemical relaxers. With the world now developing a greener conscience – cutting down on carbon emissions, the climate change issues, the genetically modified food issues etc, you therefore need to make a conscious effort to protect yourself from exposure to these chemicals by either completely cutting away from them or by decreasing your usage of them. Chemical relaxers should therefore not at any cost be applied on children.

The general consensus is that the chemical relaxers have failed the Black woman.  It does not help the Black woman’s hair to grow rather it causes it to break. It leads to brittleness, dryness, baldness and widespread alopecia where the Black woman is statistically known to have the highest rate of traction alopecia exceeding all other races combined.  This has caused Black women to accept short hair as normal where genetically this is not true.  Chemically straightening the Black woman’s hair is not an option to healthy hair.  Natural hair care options provide a healthier solution of non-hazardous styling processes.

The lack of information on the route of natural hair styles is what has sent the Black woman on a search which has led her on a road to misguided information – the beauty supply shop and the Hairdressing/cosmetology colleges.

Beauty supply and hair shops are usually owned and operated by non-specialist in Black hair and are therefore not a solution to Black hair needs.  The hairdressing and cosmetology colleges are not a solution to save the natural Black hair as they claim to be authorities on Black hair yet uphold a practice of one standard of beauty – to test the proficiency of the straight hair styling – which does not care for the health of the natural Black hair types.  Due to the wrong information offered by these hairdressing colleges, most trained Black hairdressers are also at a loss in helping the natural hair client. They lack knowledge and skill to work with natural Black hair based on their training and their role is to offer their natural Black hair clients the quick solutions of chemical relaxers.

SOLUTIONS TO WORKING WITH NATURAL BLACK HAIR

Start by taking the necessary steps to understand your hair while becoming an informed consumer.  Remember that beauty starts from within you and thank God we are no longer in the slavery era where your beauty was dictated by others but yourself.   Work with what is healthy, makes you comfortable, and is not risky and damaging to your hair follicles.  Take time to select your hair beautician as there are very few that understand the structure and chemistry of the Black hair.  There are countless untrained and unthinking hair beauticians practicing and a dose of the poisonous chemical – Sodium Hydroxide – can prove lethal in the hands of this person. Always remember the Black woman’s natural hair responds to good treatment, right tools and right products.

The natural hair alternatives to chemical processing of the hair which create beauty are: Hair weaving, hair braiding, hair locking, wig beauty etc.  Apart from hair locking, these styles are temporary and give you the various choice of styling options.  When they are done by a trained hair beautician on a base of natural black hair, these styles give you versatility without damage.  Whatever you choose to do, being in a position to decide puts you in the driving seat of your beauty and gives you the power to be pro-active instead of re-active.

World of Braiding & Extensions is a pioneer in this issue and is in a position to guide you in your journey to working on a healthier hair choice.  Let us know how we can help you by sending us your comments, questions, experiences, advise etc.

Joy Phido is the Chief Executive & Natural Hair Consultant at World of Braiding & Extensions

Contact: Tel: +44 208 983 9815, email: joy@worldofbraiding.com

www.worldofbraiding.com

References:

African Caribbean Hairdressing – Sandra Gittens

Lets Talk Hair – Pamela Ferrell

The Hair Bible – Philip Kingsley

And various internet websites.

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